Стартер к лодочному мотору эвинруд
Осталось для Evinrude, Johnson Ищу на Johnson г. Куплю карбюратор на эвинруд 5. Или ещё может кто подскажет, как раздушить свой, увеличить мощность. Винт Tohatsu л. Винт Parsun 4 5 л. Достался по случаю Е г. Дело было еще 5 лет назад Так пролежал 5 лет, за это время одну из деталей мне предложили, но по цене Счастливые обладатели Сузук и Ямах влегкую чинят свои моторы, едва ли не в сапожной мастерской.
Отправлено 16 Февраль - Отправлено 17 Февраль - Раньше ремонтировал Джонсоны- никаких проблем с запчастями, мне везут за три недели, в том числе и с Ебея. С Е-теками действительно проблемы,т. Моторов этих не так много, и набить руку на их ремонте трудно. Ну а если берете старье, будьте готовы раскошеливаться- ремонт обходится дороже самого мотора. Кстати, переделать Дж20ручной в 35электростарт считаю да простит мне владелец полным бредом и выбросом денег в помойку.
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Мощность моторов Эвинруд может превышать л. В первые три года эксплуатации их владельцы могут вообще забыть про профилактическое обслуживание. Но даже несмотря на столь высокую степень технического исполнения, со временем многим узлам и агрегатам может понадобиться ремонт. Starter Motor 10 Tooth. SM , , , , The starter motor comes with mounting bolts, and everything you seen in the pictures above. Johnson Evinrude hp 2cyl. SM , , , , , , , , , , , , Каталог крупнейшего китайского продавца на русском языке. Разобраться легче, выбирать удобнее, а цены такие же низкие. Огромная база популярных и редких американских, европейских и китайских интернет-магазинов. Запчасти и комплектующие для гидроциклов и джетботов. Запчасти и комплектующие для снегоходов. Импеллеры Mercury Sport Jet.
Запчасти и принадлежности для импеллеров. Запчасти для квадроциклов и мотовездеходов. Шины Wanda Journey для квадроциклов. Шины для дисков 12". Шины для дисков 14". Аксессуары для квадроциклов и мотовездеходов.
Запчасти для лодочных моторов. If you do not vent the tank, the fuel pump will suck a vacuum and no more fuel can be pulled into the carburetor. As of all the new plastic aftermarket fuel tanks are required to be automatic venting. These new tanks have a spring loaded automatic vacuum one way venting system in the filler cap. However one of these that I have as a spare on my larger boat where I have all the fuel lines constantly connected to a valved manifold, these new tanks act on vacuum from the motor, but do not take into account for pressure building up inside the tank in hot weather, so that quick connector from the spare tank to my manifold leaks a small amount of fuel when it the weather warms up. The EPA says this fuel venting for the multitude of boaters out there is part of the air contamination problem. Now you may also see another twist to this which is Moeller is currently making a new fuel line assembly with the ends and priming bulb that has a different quick connector at the tank end. However it replaces the tank connector fitting, so if you have more motors than the one you are going to use this new tank on, you will have change all your tanks over OR buy the old style quick connector and replace the one on this new style tank with the older style connector. Check the fuel connectors to both the motor and the fuel tank. Sometimes they may pop off just enough to disconnect themselves but still be on the guide pin. The worst coupler to do this that I have found are the ones using a torsion spring wound around a central pin, with the tails putting pressure on the latch. Attwood makes a fuel line coupler that uses a coil spring, which is quite a bit more secure than the torsion spring that Tempo uses. Make sure you have the fuel line on correctly, as it can be attached either way, but the check valves in the primer bulb will only work one way. On the bulb itself is an ARROW, indicating which way the fuel needs to flow from the tank to the motor. Push this coupler on as far as it can go AND have the couple lock latch snapped in place. Primer bulbs do not stay firm after an engine starts because fuel is "sucked" through them, not forced through them under pressure.
A problem can likely be due to a weak fuel pump or air leaks in the fuel line. Pictured below is a dissected primer bulb. The red check valve assembly is towards the tank. I swapped the red with the black plastic internal valves for better picture clarity. Normally the red will be with the red. In the suction side, red it has a light spring pushing against the valve to prevent fuel from being pushed back into the tank. As mentioned before, when running, the primer bulb will NOT be hard as when you primed the motor. The reason being when pumping the bulb to prime, you are filling the carburetor, when the carburetor float shuts off the in coming fuel, the bulb gets hard because there is no place for the fuel to now go. When the motor is running the primer bulb really needs to be laying horizontal so the fuel passes thru with little restriction. If it is vertical there is more of a chance for the check valves to do some slight blockage. Dissected fuel line primer bulb. If fuel starts running out of the carburetor when you pump the bulb, then you possibly have the carburetor float stuck our the needle valve may have dirt under it and may not be shutting off when the float reaches it high position. Also check for any possible fuel leakage at any of the fuel line fittings or at the fuel pump cover. On the older OMC motors up until about or so that used the small fuel pump mounted on the RH side of the powerhead, there will be a large headed metal screw with a coin slot in it on the outside of the fuel pump. This can be loosened and the cover removed, revealing a stainless steel screen. Make sure this screen is not clogged, and that the neoprene gasket is intact and sealing properly. If it is sucking something up into or around the pickup screen the supply can be cut off, when the motor dies, this debris can fall off, the motor may start and run again for a while. It could also be a hairline crack in the 6 gal. If it runs, then dies, try pumping the bulb while it is running and see if it improves if it does then replace the fuel pump. Sometimes it is best to rebuild the carburetor even if it is just the fuel pump. Another thing to look for that is many times overlooked, is the neoprene O-Ring on the inside of the fuel line connectors.
Common problem, cheap fix. These O-Rings are inside the connector encompassed in a inner groove right at the outer end of the stainless steel shut-off ball. You will not be able to see how bad they are until you take it out. The are usually not strictly OMC priority so you can probably pick replacements up a at an automotive store or even a well stocked hardware store, by comparing to the old size that was removed. If you can not find the exact same size, then opt for one that is the same OD but thicker. You may then have to grease this before you try to couple it to the motor or tank. These O-Rings can get nicked or scratched just enough to not seal completely and being under a vacuum, can leak air, therefore not allow fuel to be sucked to the carburetor. This is one item that is overlooked many times in tracing down a fuel problem. These are worth replacing because they may seal under pressure when you pump up the bulb , but leak under suction from the fuel pump. Cheap and easy maintenance item, and might solve help you from chasing your tail. The O-Ring on the right is badly chewed up internally. Check ALL fuel connections for leaks or cracks in the fuel line. I once found one that had a small crack UNDER the clamp, if you put the clamp back on exactly in the right place it would seal, but if it was slightly different location, then there was a vacuum leak on the suction side. Also check the gasket between the fuel pump and the powerhead. If this gasket got misplaced during a fuel pump inspection, you will have metal to metal contact, there will be a vacuum leak so the fuel pump will not function. I suspect it is so to insulate the fuel pump from the heat of the block, thereby prevent vapor lock when the motor warms up. You can easily check the fuel pump operation by removing the hose at the carburetor, pull the starter rope and see if gas comes out the hose while the motor is turning over. As an alternate to the fuel pump, you could also take an empty 1 quart oil bottle, make a fuel line adapter that fits the cap, remove the fuel line from the carburetor and using a short fuel line, connect the bottle of fuel to the carburetor inlet fitting. Hang it above the motor so you have gravity feed which does not need a fuel pump. This will give you some indication if the problem may be in the existing fuel system. I have one of these made up and use it often. The fuel pump is powered by a pulse connection to the upper cylinder on these motors. So it is a totally pneumatic pulse operating the mechanical diaphragm inside the pump, with no wires or push rods involved. If you want a better test, temporarily tee a fuel pressure gage in the pump outlet line and run the motor at various speeds. That will not only test the pump, but detect other problems such as clogged filters, air leaks, etc. Some of these gages are cheap and usually combined with a vacuum gage. Teeing it into the line ahead of the pump will also detect restrictions between there and the tank as a vacuum test.
Another method to determine if the fuel pump is bad without the engine running, unscrew the 2 pump screws from the engine and pump the primer bulb. If ANY gas comes out of the little vacuum hole on the back of of the pump, then the diaphragm is ruptured. In this case with a slightly damaged diaphragm, the motor may still operate, but fuel can be sucked into the cylinder through the pulse connection hole on the block and cause the upper cylinder to flood. You can pull the rope until your arm gets tired but it refuses to start. Wait an hour and it wills start, only to repeat the process. The spark plugs will always be wet, as the engine is flooded. On the motor shown in the photo below, the owner had lack of power problems even after all apparent avenues were covered. Compression was on both cylinders, carburetor was cleaned more than once. Fuel was mixed , but there was an excessive amount of black oil coming from the relief holes. What was found that the fuel pump had a leak in the diaphragm and was also pumping an excessive amount of fuel directly into the crankcase, which settled into the bottom cylinder and was subsequently going out that cylinders exhaust port and then into the exhaust housing of the motor. Fuel pump diaphragm was ruptured. These older OMC small square type fuel pumps are rather cantankerous to repair and make them function afterwards. The reason is that they are so delicate and invariably, you miss getting some of the springs or valves in right. You may notice that in the parts lists, the early ones do not show a repair kit for them. The later kits for this same small size pump will fit, it is just that the early bodies do not have the later style index tabs on them which aids in reassembly instructions in the kit. So you can really use the new kit in the old pumps, you will need to be sure that the diaphragms go back the same as the originals were. To be sure you get the body parts aligned back right, use a felt marking pen to mark across the the side of the pump, identifying which came from where. On these carburetors, there is a neoprene threaded gasket in the carburetor that acts as a seal. A repair kit has a new one, replace it when doing a repair job. If you are not doing a repair kit job and need to get a better seal, then you could smear some HEAVY chassis grease on and around the threads. Now just because you have fuel to carburetor and on into the engine, spark and compression is OK, there is another item in the equation that is important with that being air. One thing also to consider how far are you trying to draw the fuel?
This could also lead to hard starting of a cold engine if the fuel line vacuum has bled off. Another thing is to check the fuel. Disconnect fuel line fitting from motor and take it off the fuel line, slosh your gas tank a few times and immediately pump some fuel into a glass container. Does it smell old like varnish? Is there water or trash in the container? If so, dump it and clean the tank good then put in fresh new mix. Also check the screen in your fuel pump. Clean the carburetor again. Then clean out all fuel lines in motor. I had a reader send me his discovery. He was working on an small older OMC motor, but found that the varnished carburetor float was so water logged that it would not function.
Стартер (лодочные моторы Evinrude, Johnson 150, 175л.с.) 12V
He carefully removed the brass clip from the cork float and Micro waved the float to see if the water would be driven out of the cork. He was able to re-attach the brass clip to the cork, and it did the job, getting him going again. Another item to consider has the motor just been rebuilt and this is the first attempt to start it? This in essence totally stops any fuel from getting into the engine.
Серия катуше: salmo diamond
Тип катушки: Безынерционные катушки
Кол-во подшипников: 1 шт.
Вес: 0.98 кг
минимальный заказ: 1
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